By Cherry Dumaual
With foraging gaining popularity in recent years, driven by trends toward sustainability, local food sourcing, and reconnecting with nature, it’s exciting to note that New Fairfield has a trailblazing forager, Chrissy Tracey, a vegan chef and author of the critically acclaimed book, “Forage & Feast: Recipes for bringing mushrooms & wild plants to your table” (Ten Speed Press).
A first-generation Jamaican American, Chef Chrissy exemplifies a pioneering spirit. She became the first vegan chef to appear on Bon Appétit’s “Test Kitchen” YouTube series, with her talent further showcased in the magazine. Her culinary skills have also been highlighted on the Bon Appétit “Food People” podcast and NPR’s “Seasoned.” Recognized in Connecticut Magazine’s “40 Under 40,” Chrissy made waves as a vegan pizza chef in New Haven, a city renowned for its pizza. Now, she runs a Connecticut-based catering company, curating unique and unforgettable plant-based culinary events.
“Forage & Feast” is filled with engaging stories about foraging, captivating photography, and tempting recipes. She warmly invites readers to explore the magical world of foraging, showcasing how nature can elevate plant-based cooking to new heights. Amid her busy schedule promoting the book, Chef Chrissy graciously agreed to an interview with me, sharing insights into her book and offering inspiration for anyone eager to incorporate foraging into their culinary adventure.
What led Chef Chrissy to explore the art of foraging? Her incredibly curious, nature-obsessed personality! “As a child, I spent time picking wild raspberries, blueberries, and wild garlic chives in my yard—and I’d bring them home to my mom with a big grin on my face—though she’d discourage me from eating them. At the time I didn’t have the knowledge about the natural world that I do now, but somehow I innately knew they were edible, and I was persistent. Since I was told not to eat them, I found another use. I’d take the berries, mash them up, and paint with them in my backyard. The wild garlic chives were reserved for my ‘mud pie factory.’
It was quite comical looking back, but with a childhood centered around nature, it was easy to dive right into foraging when the right time came. I can vividly remember the day I committed myself to learning how to forage. I still have a photo somewhere in my phone archive of that day. I was hiking in Watertown at a nature preserve, and for some reason, this hike was different. I inhaled the fresh air, while deeply observing my surroundings and reconnecting with that love of nature that was always there. I observed all of the little wild violets by the lake. I took my time to explore the different pathways and sat by the water’s edge as golden hour approached when I noticed a bright patch of wild garlic chives. I picked a chive, observing the bulb at the root of the plant, then, I nibbled on it. It was at that moment I said to myself ‘I knew it.’ And I never looked back. The rest is history.”
Chef Chrissy has important advice for anyone who wants to forage. “I don’t encourage anyone new to foraging to just dive right in. Foraging can be extremely dangerous and you have to take the time to learn it well before getting to the point of cooking with wild food. For example, when you decide to pick a mushroom, you have to think about a few preliminary questions. What environment is this mushroom growing in? Is it near a waste plant? Is this area sprayed with pesticides? What tree, if any, is the mushroom growing on? It took years before I comfortably and confidently ate my first wild mushroom. I spent much of my spare time immersed in books by true experts in the field of fungi—in addition to detailed field guides.”
Chef Chrissy also believes in the power of community. “Join local foraging forums. Find mentors who can give real-world experiences needed for you to become an experienced forager. Foraging has so many layers to it and my best advice is safety first. Start with items that have limited to no dangerous look-alikes. Blueberries, for example, are an excellent place to start.”
Asked how to forage commonly found ingredients in New Fairfield, Chef Chrissy shared the following tips and insights:
“Don’t bypass your backyard when beginning your foraging journey! Those of us who live in New Fairfield are incredibly lucky. We have an abundance of berries, like Japanese wineberries, blackberries, and lowbush blueberries, as well as mushrooms galore (such as chanterelles and russulas).
Start with things that are more easily recognizable and always use a field guide. I recommend Mushrooms of the Northeast by Terersa Marrone and Walt Sturgeon or Sam Thayers Field Guide to Wild Edible Plants of the Northeast. From there, start to explore our local nature preserves and hiking trails, like Pootatuck or Great Hollow. Foraging is an abundance of fun, and with the right tools and knowledge, can be a fun, safe and family friendly activity.”
For more about Chef Chrissy Tracey and her new book, “Forage & Feast,” visit her website: https://www.eatwithchrissy.com/
Follow her on Instagram: www.instagram.com/eatwithchrissyy